Torquay to Birregurra is a pleasant country drive along quiet back roads where the bite of the drought shows with dry grass and few stock. We are at the end of summer and this part of Victoria has had more rain than other areas of Victoria but is still dry. We pass through Birregurra – a little oasis with its eclectic range of shops – quality clothing, bookshop, amazing handbags and gifts and good coffee shop – on our way to the hidden gem of Sunnybrae. A nondescript farmhouse set in dry paddocks surrounded by scrubby trees and dry gardens. We arrive in time to view “the cattery” – the art studio of Diane co-owner of Sunnybrae and inspired artist. The studio is employed today as a second dining room. Diane is a talented collage artist whose works often with witty cats as subject add to the charm and quirkiness of Sunnybrae. The cook books from around the world lining the walls adds to the warm feeling of being at home with George and Dianne – place where food and the good life is central.

George Biron – owner/chef is passionate about local, seasonal produce. He grows much of the produce we eat today in the dry ground of his property carefully watered by large dams sunk to create a sustainable garden. To come to Sunnybrae is a pilgrimage to the earth and its produce.

The hand printed set menu is explained by the young waitress and we quickly start with the snapper on a bed of unusual green succulents rock samphire (spiky) and purslane (round leaves). Crisp greens complimenting the fresh white fish. The Gosling Riesling provides a flinty contrast.

The dining room buzzes with delighted diners ready to add to their memories of splendid country meals.
Panir a home-made cheese with wilted cucumber, the tiny taste of eel in its salty sauce are the light tastes opening the taste buds to the deeper flavours of the confit with fruit and the soothing haricot bean salad. The local pink wine spells summer in a glass marrying well with all tastes.

Slow cooked braised meats are a rare treat in these time poor days. This version with the orange sofrito creating a fresh zing over the soft gelatinous flesh joined by simple potatoes and fresh garden tomatoes satisfies both tongue and stomach. So much so that we need a walk in the fruit and vegie garden to refresh our palate before dessert.

These gardens display the drying remains of summer crops of carrots, parsnips, celery, lettuce, and the final tomatoes ripening. The new locquat tree looks a bit like an avocado tree to my son-in-law, the asparagus ferns rising high above the beds that will later produce for spring are a feathery mystery to my daughter; young fruit trees planted in lines include pomegranate, nectarine, plum, apricot, peach, pear, quince, walnut, and almond. Future harvests and meals will be come from this bounty.

Small full-flavoured, lightly poached fruit from the trees outside the windows on the plate with cool white buttermilk bavarois slippery like childhood junket with a truly adult glass of muddled peach and champagne – simple uncommon pleasures. Oh bliss!

Replete – our tea and coffee served in pots with the same generosity as every other part of the meal ends a day in the countryside just a few kilometres off the Great Ocean Road. Sunday lunches will be starting again this autumn – see George’s blog.

The Menu for Sunday 24 February 2008:
First starter- Portarlington Snapper with fennel, rock samphire and purslane
Accompanied by Gosling Creek Riesling
Shared starters -
Panir with cucumber, perilla and pepper
Wild rabbit and Western Plains Pork confit with spiced Morello cherries
Skipton Smoked Eel with Anchoide de Croze
Haricot Bean salad with a smokey mustard dressing
Accompanied by Farr Saignee 2006 Bannockburn

Main Course:
Grass-grazed yearling beef braised with red wine and orange sofrito.
Garlic potatoes
Tomato and Ruchetta salad
Accompanied by Innisfail Cabernet Merlot or Farr Rising Shiraz 2005

Dessert:
Buttermilk Bavarois with poached white nectarines and plums
Accompanied by a glass of Birillini
Finished by a Slice of Spice with Timor Coffee